The Kavalier

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Grenadine and Cri de la Soie Ties: A Review of Fort Belvedere

The percentage of men who wear ties regularly seems to decline year after year. Being a tie guy myself, I find this unfortunate, but I think I have a solution. Yes, we live in an increasingly casual society, but I wonder whether men would wear neckties more often if they experienced a high-quality one. Today I want to break down and review two ties from Fort Belvedere that will up your tie game.

I hope they’ll also spark in you a renewed joy in wearing a tie, gentlemen.

Before I present my case for bringing ties back into your sartorial arsenal, let's cover what separates a quality necktie from a poor one. There are two main factors at play here: the quality of materials used and the the craftsmanship of the tie. Shall we cover both in a bit more detail?

Materials

A good tie is going to be made out of materials such as silk, wool, cashmere, or other natural fiber. Opting for natural fibers when buying most clothes is a good choice but it’s always the best choice when looking for a necktie.

Since they’re machine washable, ties made out of polyester are only useful if you plan to beat them up and get them dirty. But that calls to mind another rule of menswear: functionality. If your job requires you to get dirty (food service? preschool art teacher?), just go tieless if you’re allowed.

The two ties in the photo on the right show the difference between a natural fiber tie and a polyester tie. The one on top, the natural one, has more texture and variation as it is made from wool, silk, and cashmere. Even to the untrained eye, this tie has a higher-quality look. It also feels softer and hangs better, providing a smooth and attractive drape. The polyester tie is more rigid and resilient, but its texture is too homogeneous, making it look cheap and artificial. Which it is

Construction

There are several types of tie construction. 7-fold is probably the best known but this doesn't always mean that it’s a high-quality tie; it is a sign but certainly not definitive. What we want to pay attention to is the quality of the craftsmanship, which is a little harder to judge, but handwork is a good indicator. A tie that is put together by hand will be able to move and flow as it is being tied since the stitches are looser than a machine-sewn tie. Additionally, a machine-made tie’s center seam or tacking thread will often snap after only a few wears. Hand-sewn seams are beneficial on many garments, but on a tie they’re one of the be one of the clearest marks of its quality.

Shall we look at a couple ties in more detail then? How about two of my favorites from Belvedere?

Grenadine Stripe tie

Fort Belvedere - Cashmere Wool Grenadine Tie in Orange, Gray Wide Stripe

First up is the wool, cashmere, and silk grenadine tie in grey and orange stripes. I initially didn't think I would love the color combo, but I bought it just the same, and for good reason: I had a tie in green, my older son's favorite color, so I realized needed an orange one for my youngest since that’s his favorite color. Even though I don’t share my young son’s color preferences, this tie turned out to be a solid investment in my wardrobe: it’s since become the most worn tie in my entire collection.

It also made me appreciate the beauty of burnt orange, which I plan to wear more often now that I’ve warmed up to it.

A few details on the tie itself:

The orange is a beautiful dark orange but not quite a burnt orange. The grey stripes and grenadine weave are beautiful. The hand on this tie is perfect, as is the drape. It pairs well with any shade of blue or grey, which are the colors I wear the most often. I can’t overstate just how versatile this necktie is in spite of its somewhat unorthodox color scheme. If you could only have three ties in your wardrobe, I would definitely include this one!

Quality

The hand, drape, and tie-ability of this tie are outstanding. As much as I wear it for the color, I also quite appreciate the hand and qualitity of the texture. The center stitch and the tack on the back have held beautifully, and the green thread is a subtle but elegant touch. As noted above, a hand-stitched center seam is imperative, and this one has performed beautifully.

Versatility and Wear

I have honestly worn this tie with every jacket I currently own. I never thought I would be one to like orange, but this number from Fort Belvedere has struck such a perfect balance of elegance and wearability that I can't help but reach for when I get dressed in the morning.

Cri de la Soie Knit Tie

Fort Belvedere - Knit Tie in Mottled Silver Grey Silk

The Cri de la Soie ('Cry of the Silk') tie is unique and quite elegant. As far as I know, there is only one mill in Germany that makes these ties, and they are beautiful. This knit silk tie has a 'crunchy' feel to it. It is not your typical knit tie in that it can be dressed up or down, unlike a usual knit tie. Its construction is every bit as solid as the grenadine tie above and serves its purpose just as well. Also like the grenadine, this tie has become one of my favorites and is certainly worth the price.

In fact, they’re both worth the price. At $135 and $130, respectively, they are not cheap, but neither are the loving craftsmanship or top-shelf materials that went into them. As with all long-term wardrobe staples, these ties are worthwhile investments that will last you for years as long as you care for them. They will also make you feel more confident and stylish than a cheaper tie would. Quality beats quantity, and these ties are at the top of my list as far as good ties go.

I have been lifting weights for over 15 years and have been a competitive weightlifter and powerlifter. I have had issues with finding clothes that fit properly for as long as I can remember. In 2017 I stepped up my style game in a serious way and realized there are very few decent options for muscular men at the average online or brick and mortar store. I started a journey to find options that fit the muscular man, and the start of the 'Muscular Style' blog was born.

I write about style with the intent to help you avoid all the wasted time and frustration I have encountered in my journey. I want you to be able to buy quality clothing that fits well. Currently, I work as a professional clothier at Smith Bespoke in Salt Lake City and have made helping men dress better into my career.