Allen Edmonds New Goodyear Welt Overview
Hey gents,
For this post, I decided to pay a visit to Allen Edmonds - an excellent shoe company - to find out more about their Goodyear Welt. I figured that it was also a great opportunity to discuss their new methods, as well what a Goodyear Welt is with you guys so you can keep it in mind while hunting down your next pair.
I met with Jim Kass, Senior Vice President of Product Development so he could give us an in-depth look. Allen Edmonds is known first and foremost as a Goodyear Welt company even though they dabble in other methods. The biggest reason they prefer Welts is versatility. The construction technique allows them to build the shoe up from scratch. Craftsmen pull the Upper down around the Last through the Insole Reb. They then sew some flexible leather over the perimeter before finally sewing the Welt on.
This results in an efficient modular shoe. If a customer wears out the sole, they can simply take it in to be replaced. Allen Edmonds will remove the old heel, cork filling, and sole before replacing them with new materials. The advantage here is that the customers can simply keep the valuable leather Upper of the shoe for generations. Other types of shoe construction are geared to use the same sole forever. The moment the sole is unbearably worn is the moment the whole shoe goes in the trash.
The company’s goal is to shift the perception of the Goodyear Welt from a rigid and uncomfortable structure to one that can fit a myriad of shoe types. By helping the consumer understand the differences between the Bench, Speed (classic style), Feather (flexible rubber), and Storm (weather-proof) Welts, they hope to draw attention to their sheer utility.
So, what exactly goes into Welt construction? Jim was kind enough to give me a rundown of the Bench. They start with a 3mm piece of full-grain leather (which is what you stand on) before attaching a taped rib to the bottom. This is what the Upper is attached to. You’re left with a cavity at the bottom which is then filled up with hot cork. Once it cools down, the sole is sewn on and a leaderboard heel is nailed in. That completes the traditional Bench build. What are some benefits to the Bench Welt? Well, it’s extremely stable. Think about it - leather, cork, and more leather. When you stick your foot in, the heat actually softens the cork beneath the insole for a truly custom fit.
What about a more casual style? This is where the Speed Welt comes in. The quality in the Upper is still on par - Allen Edmonds will use French, Italian, and German calf on the Upper. Despite the outward appearance as a solid dress shoe though, the Feather is much softer and just a bit lighter. Instead of cork, we’re looking at Texon board and a foam-cork blend to fill the cavity. That is then covered in leather. The outsole is a rubber-leather composite while the insole uses EVA for cushioning and weight reduction. The center of the heel is hollowed out and filled with Poron in order to add some bounce. The result is a shoe that you can walk around in all day without significant discomfort.
When it comes to a Feather Welt, the main difference is in the compound used in the outsole. You’re going to see an Extralight material which really takes the weight off the shoe. You’ll also see more of a rubber appearance on the exterior of the shoe. Feather Welts are the most flexible of the bunch.
On top of Welts, Allen Edmonds is looking to really capitalize on the waterproof shoe market. Jim recognized that a lot of guys enjoyed taking their dress shoes out in the winter but worried about their durability in rough conditions. Their Storm Welts are going to use waterproof leather and breathable membrane on the outsole and the shoe as a whole. The seems are all going to be sealed in order to protect the structure as much as possible. You won’t get a “waterproof” shoe (you don’t want to stand in a pond), but you will get something to wear out in the rain.
Conclusion
Goodyear Welt construction offers a significant advantage over competing methods. With a Welt, you get a shoe that’s essentially modular. You’ll never have to worry about dumping whole pairs away when the soles wear out because you can always simply have them replaced.